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Home > Regions > Szekszárd (Hungary)
SZEKSZÁRD (HUNGARY)
Probably even prehistoric men consumed the clusters of Vitis sylvestris in its natural presence. It is but likely that viticulture had been introduced to the area as early as by the Celts, while it is definitely proven to have been existent here in Roman times when the settlement bore the name of Alisca, known today as Szekszárd. A marble sarcophagus adorned with mythological scenes in addition to a vine stock was unearthed in this area. It is presumed that Emperor Probus, known for his vine stock plantings, grew red wine grape varieties here. For many centuries following the Roman era, there is no positive information on local winegrowing. The first relevant record believed to be certain is the transcript issued by the chapter of Esztergom containing the deed of foundation by King Béla I, listing the donations in year 1061. Only white wine was likely to be produced by that time in this area. Church domains were home to high-quality winegrowing as it is proven in the document dated 1267 by the Abbey of Szekszárd. It was the Serbs fleeing the Turkish expansion who introduced the Kadarka variety as well as the Southern Slav red wine culture to this area. In 1541, the Turks made the city a sanjac center, however, viniculture continued, what’s more, some vineyards actually had Muslim proprietors. In the early 18th century, Mérey Mihály and the succeeding abbots granted the winemakers the privilege to be tithed only, in other words to be levied the tenth tenth of the crop only, whereas normally they would be taxed two tenths: one owed to the Church (the tenth tenth) while the other (the ninth tenth) to the landowner. These benefits attracted the German settlers alike who poured into the area in several flows. The locals’ winemaking knowledge complemented by that of the new settlers, contributed to the progress of the viniculture in this area. The technique of fermentation on the skin was common by the middle of the century as well as it was to store the wines in cellars, which was especially important in terms of the commerce. By this time, wine played a major role in making a living. While back in 1828, there were 37 white and 29 “black” grape varieties grown locally, including 6 different varieties of Kadarka (even white ones), whereas a mere 20 years later there was a mention of only a few varietals to dominate. Fertilization is already in use at the time, yet not in the proper manner, however; more and more vine stocks are propped. As a result of the Napoleonic wars, wine was of high demand. After 1815, it became less saleable, while high-quality red wine never lost its market. As of this time, French wines began gaining market share over to the poorly treated Hungarian ones. Szekszárd’s wines earned fame primarily in the German-speaking areas. The phylloxera caused a major drawback to this area as well, leaving the once thriving vineyards practically barren. Up till recent centuries, this region had been dominated by Kadarka, with its being late harvested yet delivering excellent aromas at times, whereas lately to be outweighed by Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch), Cabernet, and Merlot varietals featuring more predictability. This region totals 1,925 hectares
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